Great, but use extreme care.
After learning the "hard" way, the Rudder Pedals work Great! First (and very importantly) do NOT try to assign any functions to the pedals using your feet! After plugging in the USB connection put them on a flat surface and use your hands when moving the pedals to assign the right and left "Differential Brake" functions, then again using your hands, assign the "Rudder Axis" function.
Secondly, do not get overly exuburent when imputing the right or left "Rudder", if you hit the stops "firmly" the pedals will LOCK-UP! You will then have to remove 20 screws, and carefully re-align the pedals so they "unlock", then have to reinstall the 20 screws! Trust me, I've done it three times (greatly increasing my "expletive deleted" vocabulary in the process!) In spite of the above, they work well. I am a retired corporate pilot and use my flight sim to practice instrument procedures.
Secondly, do not get overly exuburent when imputing the right or left "Rudder", if you hit the stops "firmly" the pedals will LOCK-UP! You will then have to remove 20 screws, and carefully re-align the pedals so they "unlock", then have to reinstall the 20 screws! Trust me, I've done it three times (greatly increasing my "expletive deleted" vocabulary in the process!) In spite of the above, they work well. I am a retired corporate pilot and use my flight sim to practice instrument procedures.
Nice but could be a Bit Sturdier
As someone new to flight simulators, these were the first rudder pedals I have ever used. My general impression is that they work well but their flimsy construction is disconcerting. As I haven't ever used CH pedals, it is difficult to assess what would be considered sturdy for a consumer product like this. However, the Saitek pedals feel as if they would be damaged by putting any amount of weight on the pedal surface. Not only is the plastic rather thin but the whole apparatus is extremely light. Saitek should have used some inexpensive ballast to rectify the latter problem.
Unfortunately, the light weight means they are not stable when used straight out of the box. With several through holes, the designers are probably suggesting the user mount the base to a heavier object. To use them on carpet, I took a different approach. In each of the eight holes, I mounted a set screw with a flat machined end. These were adjusted with a nut and large washer (for weight...
Tim
Allright. I heard about the sticking problem and true to my nature decided on the gool old pre-emptive strike to solve my problems. So I fabbed up a set of stopps. Screwed everything down to a chunk of 3/4" plywood, added a couple pieces of dowel rod with some rubber caps on the end to keep the pedals fended off from the wall and stable,(No movement at all across the floor) and voila...they work great. The plywood stiffens up the whole assembly with is a little flimsey for my comfort, and the stopps keep the pedals from traveling their full length of travel. Now hamfootedness is no problem. I idiot proofed the whole rig. The pedals cant get stuck if they can't get past 1/2" south of the sticking place. Got 5 images uploaded on the product information page that show how do do your own. The concept is pretty simple. Get a set of 3" L brackets. Drill the top hole out to 5/16. Put a rubber cap over the end of the carriage bolt, and bolt it to the L bracket. Attach the whole mess to an...
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